Munroe Island and the Kerela Fish Curry

My journey to Kerela is difficult to describe in words. It was one of those travels which can only be experienced not written about. And the calmness you feel living there is almost close to nirvana.

My journey started in a small town called Ashtamudi. Ashtamudi means "Eight Coned", and is called so because the Ashtamudi's lake topography consists of multiple branches.

Ashtamudi Map

During my stay in Ashtamudi, we made it a point to visit the Munroe Island. Munroe Island is a cluster of 8 tiny islands surrounded by the Kallada River and the Ashtamudi Lake. There are daily village tours that take you around the narrow backwaters in a small canoe allowing you to experience the village life at close quarters. Fishing, coir making, boat making, vegetable growing and goat herding are some of the experiences you get at the village.

Women haggling with local fish vendors

The highlights included small children running out of their houses asking you to gift them pens. Apparently, the children use chalk for writing in schools, so pens are a novelty item which they get only from tourists. Another experience is being a witness to serious haggling of village women with their own local fish vendors. We also manged to get ourselves invited to a village home and learn about their living, specifically their traditional kitchens and open bathrooms.

Coir making process

The best part of the trip was this soft sacred hymn from the island temple interspersed with the light sounds of the water hitting the shores that echoed throughout the island. It gave an very good feel to the village visit which can never be forgotten.

My visit to Ashtamudi cannot be complete without the mention of food.

After spending half a day at Munroe island, we asked our driver to take us to any local place for a traditional Kerela fish curry meal. He was hesitant at first and suggested we go back to the resort for lunch, but after insisting, he took us to a small local food joint for the traditional meal. The restaurant was called City Hotel and was very simple and non fussy. Most of the customers eating there were the villagers, so we felt like outsiders with our western clothes. The restaurant had long granite tables with chairs lined up, and most customers sharing tables with strangers. We sat down on an empty table and ordered our Kerela fish curry with fried fish.

The waiters first set the banana leaf as a base for the rest of the food. The next was two types of achars (pickles), followed by dollops of white boiled rice, a vegetable curry and crispy papads (papadums). The spicy fish curry and the fried fish were served separately in bowls.

As they say, when in Rome do what the Romans do, and that's how we ate our meals. We used our hand to mix the rice with the curries and the taste was fantastic. The spoons were set aside and never used.
The food quantity and quality was very good. The rice and the vegetarian gravy were unlimited but ordering more fish came at a cost. The fried fish (not sure about the variety used) was perfectly cooked with simple flavors, but the curry was a little hot for my palate.

Kerela Fish Curry with Fried fish, Rice, Vegetable Gravy, Pickles and Papads

I was not expecting the presenatation of food to be fancy, but was happy to know the cleanliness standards they maintained while serving food. And they probably paid more attention to us since we guests from outside the city.

So on a concluding note, I would say "when in Ashtamudi, sink into the local flavours, both with travelling and with food!" I'll write more about my next Kerela adventure in the following post.

Traditional Bohra New Year Celebration with Food

The Dawoodi Bohra community brings in the New Year in a unique way. The night of the New Year is celebrated with lots of traditional Bohra home cooked food with high importance given to an elaborate, sumptuous dining experience. Something to look forward to every year.

Most families start planning for the New Year dinner some days in advance. The reasons are two -
1. To cook as many dishes as possible; generally anything above 11 and sometimes even upto 52
2. To cook and share their food with neighbors and family.

Most traditional Bohra families eat their meals sitting together around a huge steel plate, also known as "thaal".The thaal is necessary to facilitate a New Year dinner, and the food dishes if high in number, will be seen piled up.

Thaals accommodate atleast 8 people, and those sitting around the thaal eat the food served to them from a single plate put in the center of the thaal. This is very unique experience and was introduced by the ancestors to build brotherhood and closeness amongst those eating together.

This tradition however, is slowing losing ground in modern families, but still encouraged during community meals, festivals or celebrations such as marriages.

A New Year Thaal

The thaal feast does not begin until everyone is seated. This tradition is then followed by offering of salt to everyone in the thaal. Eating a pinch of salt is supposed to stimulate the tastebuds, and set the pace for the rest of the meal. Salt is followed by a small saucer of "sodanna" which is dish consisting of steamed white rice, a little warm pure ghee, some sugar or sweet mava. Sodanna is supposed to signify a happy moment and is auspitious to have in a thaal.

After the preliminaries, any sweet dish can be introduced. A sweet dish is also called "mithaas" by the Bohras. A sweet dish is always followed by a savoury dish, also called "kharas". The process of eating a sweet dish....followed by a savoury dish....continues till all food is finished.

Fruits form an important part of the New Year Thaal. They are light to eat and add to the dish count.

There are some customary dishes that always finds it's way on a New Year thaal.

The first is a sweet dish called "lachka". Lachka is similar to halwa. Crushed boiled wheat, ghee, jaggery and sugar are cooked till blended and soft and then mixed with dry fruits such as almonds and pistachio, finally topped with charoli and dessicated coconut.

Another must item on the thaal is fried fish. The fish is marinated with ginger garlic paste, red chiili powder, turmeric powder, coriander powder, cumin powder and lime.

The raw fish cannot be purchased from the market, but only from specific fishermen who have chanted a prayer at the time of getting the fish out of the bait. Also the fish needs to be a lake bred fish and not a sea fish.

The Dawoodi Bohra community give immense significance to food and love celebrating every moment of their life with tasty and innovative dishes. For those who haven't, should try getting their hands into a Bohri meal for an unforgettable experience!

Food For Thought, Cafe and a Book

Cafes and bookstores have always been synonymous with each other. The thought of picking up a book and sitting down reading it with a cup of coffee or a sandwich is a tranquilizing thought for a sunny afternoon.

So when I read about this new cafe at Kitab Khana at Fort (opposite HSBC Bank), I jumped at the idea of spending an afternoon there. The cafe called "Food For Thought" sounded unique in its name and their much talked about "Pear and Walnut" cake pulled me sooner to it over a weekend.

I walked into the cafe on a Saturday afternoon and found it to be a packed house. The cafe is very small occupying the furthermost end of the library, but easy to spot. Once I got there, I had to locate the owner Kapil Sanghi (not difficult because he is always around) and tell him I wanted a table for two. After a wait of under 5 mins I had a table ready for me to begin my cafe experience.

Food For Thought serves only vegetarian food but this should not be a deterrent for the non vegetarians because their fixed menu and changing menu is excellent. There were many options to choose from, and we began our order with the Moroccan Pita Salad. The salad was light with a mix of fresh lettuce, cherry tomatoes, olives and a mix of other greens with a yogurt base. The salad got interesting with it's light crispy pita and chick peas.

The next order was the popular Bhel Puri Sandwich. The thought of mixing a Mumbai street chaat with a sandwich was interesting. And when it made it to our table, it was perfectly grilled with the yummy chaat not as soggy as I thought it would be.

Finally it was the time for dessert, something which I look forward to everytime I eat out. As the variety was wide, I decided to ask the owner Kapil for help. Kapil was keen to know the flavors I liked in desserts before helping me choose one. When I told him I wanted my dessert to not be very sweet, but still be a mix of chocolate and sour strawberries, so he vouched that the Chocolate Strawberry Pizza would not disappoint me. And he was right!

The chocolate cake base of the pizza was light and not very sweet and the sourness and the pulpiness of the strawberries balanced it very well. The light whipped cream on top was a perfect replacement for cheese. To cut it short, I choose not to share my dessert with the person I was lunching with :)

The only disappointment were the Oreo Cookie Cupcakes. The icing was too sugary and OK to taste. Kapil did warn us though that his wife makes the best chocolate cupcakes and she wasn't in the kitchen that day. We should have taken the hint :)

Verdict:
Will I go there again? Yes I will!
I loved their food and their menu! Another Saturday afternoon maybe, with a book and some Food For Thought!