Friday, June 14, 2013

Amidst the pine trees in Kasauli

“The place you know best is the one you live in”
Getting on the rocky road to Himachal Pradesh
Curious to experience snowfall and figure why people living in the mountains are happy people drove me to the hill stations of Himachal Pradesh. Himachal Pradesh, a quiet and hilly state of India is situated in the outer Himalayas (Shivlik Hills). The locals also known as the “Pahadis” ensure you get a good experience wherever you go!
My first stop was the charming Kasauli. Located at a distance of 65km from Chandigarh, my option was to either travel by a comfortable rented car or travel by the local bus. The car would drop me directly to Kasauli in 2 hours but the local bus would have its struggles which would include a 3+ hour ride from Chandigarh to Dharampur, a bus change, and then another 45 mins to Kasauli. The latter is fun but good for a one time experience if you are weak-hearted (crowded, many stops, late)!
Kasauli Market
Kasauli was developed by the British during their rule in India. Its narrow paths, beautiful valley views, scattered population and amazing weather might have appealed the British then. Good thing it has been retained today just as well. Kasauli is surrounded by pine trees and the air there is so pure, that it is recommended by doctors for those with respiratory problems. During winters the temperature can fall below 5deg C and the air can get extremely foggy.
Moving around Kasauli
On entering Kasauli I was greeted by a towering church called the Christ Church. It is probably the only dominating structure in all of Kasauli. Inaugurated and built during the 19th century it is a quaint little gothic construction with pretty stained glass work inside.
Christ Church
The other popular place of visit is the Manki Point (often referred to as Monkey Point). Manki in hindi stands for “From your Heart”. They say that when you visit the Hanuman Temple at Manki Point, you should make a wish and it will come true if wished from the heart. Located inside an Air Force area, all cameras and phones are banned. Moreover it is important to carry an ID proof if you want to get inside the area at all. Be ready to get intimidated by a strict officer who issues you a pass at the entrance. They only want to ensure that you are not breaking any rules while you are inside their zone, because the rest of the folks there are pretty much cool to talk to. And yes, you will be spied at secretly all the time!
Kasauli also has the famous Lawrence School in Sanawar – one of the best boarding schools in India. The school building nestled inside a thick forest of trees almost looks like a palace in a lost city.
Lawrence School in Sanawar
Where to stay in Kasauli
The hotels in Kasauli are very scattered, most of them are away at a distance of 3-6km. That is probably the reason why the main Mall area of Kasauli remains quiet and sparsely crowded at most times.
The HPTDC government hotel – Ros Common is a safe option for single or female travelers. Run by the Himachal Tourism, Ros Common is a colonial bungalow with only 6 rooms. Their upkeep still reflects of the older times but the overall experience of living there is very different. Almost like living in your own home in Kasauli. To stay in a more upscale place, Kasauli Resorts is also a good option.

Some of the other must dos at Kasauli –
Move around the quaint market place at the Mall. Most shops will be empty during winters because their owners will be away trying to get as much warmth as they can from the sun. Don’t worry; they will come running when they see you entering their shops.
A must try is the Tibetan food from the road stalls. Their dim sums and thukpas will give a lot of warmth during the winters.
You’ll find many dogs and monkeys around. The stray dogs are huge and furry and they will follow you around if you give them attention. Monkeys will snatch whatever you are holding in your hands.
Lastly walk a lot and avoid travelling by cars. You deserve the pure air!
Kasauli Market

Tibetian Food


Wednesday, May 1, 2013

Living a Royal Life in Chail

“We travel, some of us forever, to seek other states, other lives, other souls.”
Chail is quietly nestled in the mountains of Himachal Pradesh. You will come across this quaint hill-station as you travel by road from Kasauli to Shimla. The sights along this road are beautiful with lots of deonar trees, mountains and deep valleys.
While travelling to Chail, the route to take is the one starting from Kasauli, passing through the pretty town of Solan and then Kandaghat. Kandaghat is the place from where you cut off from the highway and hit a narrow road towards Chail. There is a board clearly indicating the direction to Chail and it should take about 29 kms to reach from there.
Deonar Trees in Chail
The Summer Capital of the Maharaja
Chail once served as a summer capital of Maharaja Bhupinder Singh of Patiala. History says, the Maharaja incurred the rage of Lord Kitchener which got him expelled from Shimla. He then decided to build his own summer capital which lead to the discovery of Chail. I also heard another different version about the Maharaja’s oust from Shimla, but thought it best to leave the real one to history.
We reached Chail by evening and headed straight to see “Kali Ka Tibba” or the Kali Devi Temple. Located on a high altitude, this temple stands on the tip of a hill giving a 360 degree view of the Shivlik range of mountains. The temple is beautifully built with marble and has a serene and spiritual surrounding. Winters has chilly winds making almost impossible to stand in the open temple courtyard for long.
Shivlik Mountains from Kali Ka Tibba
Living in Royalty
The next stop was to visit the Chail Palace Hotel built by the Maharaja in 1891. This palace is now maintained by the Himachal Pradesh Tourism Department and is considered a Premium Heritage Hotel. The rooms in the palace are rented to visitors at a cost. The Palace hotel is also open to non-resident guests who want to just explore the place.
The Chail Palace Hotel
A stay in the hotel gives you access to all luxuries which may have once been experienced by the royal. Large rooms, maze like corridors, antique furniture, well maintained lawns, billiards room and good Himachal food served straight from their royal kitchen. What was fascinating to see was, the door latches from the bygone era still used in the rooms.
Door Locks in the Chail Palace from 1891
That evening of landing at the hotel, the palace was empty with me and a friend being the only guests. We opted for an inexpensive room at the palace which took us down 2 storeys below the reception and the palace hall. Being the only residents of the palace that night, we felt isolated and a little bit scared I'd say. On sharing our concerns, the hotel promptly upgraded us to a room near the reception. The stay then on felt safe and comfortable but stirred my palace phobia!
Entering the Chail Palace Hotel
I must praise the Himachal Pradesh Tourism Department hospitality though. They were helpful and co-operative and made sure we felt at home. They patiently showed us around the palace rooms including the lavishly done up rooms of the Maharaja and Maharani.
At the end of my trip, what really struck me about Chail was that it has managed to filter itself from the other touristy places in Himachal Pradesh! It’s quiet forests make for excellent treks providing a sense of peace. A visit to Chail is a must!
Some more interesting facts about Chail
Chail is spread over an area of 72 acres on 3 adjacent hills – the Rajgarh Hill where the Palace is built, the Pandava Hill where the British Resident once lived and the Siddh Tibba which has the temple of Baba Sidhnath.
Some of the other must visit places of Chail include the Chail Cricket Ground built in 1893. Although you are not allowed to move around the grounds, you can boast about standing on the highest cricket ground in the world (2,444m).
The Chail Military School is close to the Chail Cricket Ground and houses some really nice building with restricted entry.
Chail is also known to have some of the best treks in India. Give more time to this place and explore it completely!
Winter months November – February can be extremely cold with temperatures dropping to 1-2 deg C.
Sitting in the Chail Palace Hall
At the Highest Cricket Ground in the World
At the Highest Cricket Ground in the World
Chail Market